Robert Parker 98
The 2012 Clos Mogador is nothing short of spectacular. They started in 1999 with some Cariñena, and they gradually increased the Garnacha and reduced the Cabernet. 2012 is possibly the vintage of Mogador with less Cabernet, as it didn’t behave well in such warm year. René Barbier senior tells me it reminds him of the freshness of the 2000 that he generously uncorked for me to compare; they only have a handful of bottles for the old vintages! The nose of this 2012 is still little reticent but not reduced like many vintages in the past, slowly showing a great Mediterranean-Atlantic balance with notes of herbs, wet slate and graphite. The super-elegant palate offers great acidity and freshness with incredibly layered and delineated flavors that have an electric, mineral sensation with tension and really fine tannins. There are no traces of oak and no edges… rugged silk? This is a Mogador for decades. If this is always a bargain for the quality it delivers, it is even more so in 2012! I had the opportunity to walk the Clos Mogador and Manatees vineyards with proprietor René Barbier, the father of modern Priorat. The focus on getting the soils alive and the careful winemaking of René Barbier Jr. resulted in the best wines they have produced since they started in 1989. Their wines are always carefully priced and represent good value for Priorat.
Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027
Glass-staining violet color. Explosive spice- and mineral-accented aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, incense, pipe tobacco and woodsmoke, joined by a sexy floral nuance. The fleshy, sweet, expansive palate offers concentrated blueberry and cherry compote flavors, along with suggestions of licorice and vanilla. Velvety tannins and superb clarity shape the seamless and lush but lively finish. This wine is now among the best in Priorat and has been moving in this direction steadily in recent years.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2027